CRAVE: Recipes arranged by flavour, to suit your mood and appetite by Ed Smith (Quadrille, £25) Photography: Sam A. Harris
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You do technically need to have fermented cherry tomatoes on tap for this, but if you want to make the salad right now, then you could substitute them with the same quantity of cherry tomatoes roasted in one tablespoon of olive oil for the same time as the bread (10–12 minutes). They should be shrivelling but still definitely tomatoes after this time. Drizzle with two teaspoons of red wine vinegar, a pinch or two of sugar and salt, allow to cool just for a moment then fold them and any juices from the tray through the salad at the last minute, after the toasted pita.
Fermented cherry tomatoes
Fermented cherry tomatoes are intense little flavour bombs that fizz and pop with lactic sourness. They’re something I first came across thanks to the Ukrainian food writer Olia Hercules, and now make them often, nearly always having a jar to hand, and probably another batch on the go. Originally, this method was going to be included within one of the next two recipes (in which you’ll see they are key). But on reflection, fermented cherry tomatoes deserve a page of their own – add them to or serve with a cheese toastie, enjoy cold next to omelettes, gently warmed to go with scrambled eggs, or fully cooked-down into a layered and umami-rich pasta sauce.
CRAVE: Recipes arranged by flavour, to suit your mood and appetite by Ed Smith (Quadrille, £25) Photography: Sam A. Harris