Find Out What We Thought of This New Wellness Sanctuary on the Yorkshire Coast
Following a £10 million redevelopment, the former Raithwaite Estate has now reopened as Saltmoore, a luxurious 'wellness-led sanctuary'. We went along to check it out
The hotel itself is warmly lit and welcoming, and before we’ve even checked in we’re both enjoying a glass of sparkling tea (which is much nicer than it sounds) before being promptly shown up to our room. It’s a dream in pale, calming hues, with sandy-coloured tiles beneath a deep free-standing tub, a four-poster bed, a comfortable seating area, plus a spacious bathroom with a walk-in rainfall shower. Underfloor heating is a welcome find given the frosty weather outside.
We’ve arrived a little late but there’s still time to head down to the Lounge Bar before dinner, where we find groups of comfy chairs in pools of light, a wood-burning stove and an excellent cocktail menu. After two ‘Sandsend negronis’ made with rhubarb, lavender and thyme, we make our way past reception to the hotel’s Brasserie, where we sit on comfortable bench seats at a marble-topped corner table with a great view of the comings and goings around us. The food here is under the control of head chef Adam Maddock, in close collaboration with chef consultant Tommy Banks, so our hopes are high (a fine-dining restaurant is due to open in spring).
Even on a cold night in January, the Brasserie is busy and the atmosphere relaxed. Dredging pillowy Whitby sea salt-topped focaccia through rosemary oil is a great way to kick off the evening, and things only get better when our starters arrive. My steak tartare is prettily presented, topped with a confit egg yolk and served with a crispy beef fat hash brown. Across the table, my partner’s hand dived king scallop is perfectly cooked, with Jerusalem artichoke, coppa and a hazelnut vinaigrette.
I’ve gone a little off-piste on the mains and ordered a beef cheek suet pudding – something you rarely see on a menu, but which I have a long-standing love of. Shortly after ordering I’m overtaken by fear – what if it’s not a real suet pudding, but some deconstructed, cheffy take on it?
I needn’t have worried – it’s exactly what I hoped for: tender, falling apart chunks of beef cheek encased in light suet, with a rich red wine gravy, wild mushrooms, cabbage and smoked mash on the side. A dollop of horseradish cream cuts through the gravy and adds a bit of zing. My partner’s roast cod, meanwhile, is flaky and delicious, sitting in a smoked mussel and bacon sauce, with broccoli and squash.
When it comes to desserts, he can never resist a creme brûlée, and this one is flavoured with gingerbread and served with a heather honey Madeline. My cheese plate is made up of a well-chosen selection from the Courtyard Dairy. By the time we finish our wine, the restaurant is starting to empty.
The following morning we’re up early to walk to Whitby. Setting off from the hotel, we reach the sea in less than 10 minutes, passing the next stages of the hotel’s development along the way (the soon-to-open Beach House, which will have more rooms, its own bar and restaurant, and a collection of lodges which are being built along the drive). Turning right, we follow the path along the coast, dropping down onto the breakwater as we approach the town. We can’t come here without stopping for a look at the abbey, so we cross the bridge from one side of the town to the other and climb the 199 steps to St Mary’s Church and Whitby Abbey, watching out for vampires as we go. None are to be found – but perhaps it’s still a little too early in the morning.
By the time we loop back through the town and return to Saltmoore, we’ve covered six miles and feel we deserve some relaxation. Luckily, the hotel’s spa is next on our to-do list.
The Sanctuary at Saltmoore is a real treat. In a compact, beautifully-designed space, we find a large, warm pool, plenty of comfortable beds, a sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and an ice bath. While my partner makes it his mission to complete the whole ‘thermal experience’ (including the wince-inducing one degree ice bath) I take a steam in the steam room, swim in the pool, and lounge in the jacuzzi. It’s soon time for my treatment – an hour-long massage (the therapist pays particular attention to my shoulders, and I can feel the benefit for days).
By the time we tear ourselves away from the spa, the afternoon is getting on. Feeling refreshed but hungry, we head down to the Orangerie for afternoon tea. It’s a bright space with lots of greenery, and the windows down two sides overlook the large terrace (sure to be a hit come summer). Our afternoon tea comes out promptly and we delve into sandwiches (excellent), sausage rolls (outstanding) and scones (delicious), before turning to the sweet stuff, which includes a moreish mini cheesecake and a perfect chequerboard Battenberg.
In the morning, we linger over breakfast. There’s a large table laden with cereals, fruit, nuts and seeds, pastries, muffins, jam-filled cruffins and all sorts of other treats. My partner makes his way through a full Saltmoore breakfast from the kitchen, while I tuck into omelette Arnold Bennet (which is delicious but defeats me before I can finish it) and a well-spiced Bloody Mary. We leave feeling thoroughly relaxed – taking time for one last stroll along the beach before heading for home.
Saltmoore, Sandsend Road, Whitby YO21 3ST
saltmoore.co.uk
