The Italian Island Escape You Need to Know About
While its glamorous neighbour, Capri, often steals the limelight, Ischia has quietly cultivated a devoted following among those in the know
Landing in Naples, we’re soon careering through the heart of the city to Calata di Massa to catch the ferry to Ischia. It’s only an hour-long sail, but the bustling mainland feels a lifetime away and as we approach, the island’s topography unfolds; a tapestry of craggy volcanic cliffs, pine forests and pastel-hued villages cascading down to sparkling waters.
We’re booked in to The Pagoda Lifestyle Hotel where, on arrival, it’s clear that the hotel is determined to encapsulate la dolce vita at every turn. Just a short stroll from the harbour, we’re greeted by an outcrop of whitewashed buildings softened by bougainvillaea and the faint rustle of mature olive trees. Check-in is equally breezy and relaxed; so much so, it’s mere minutes between leaving our luggage and the first sip of a limoncello spritz overlooking the sparkling sea. We could get used to this.
Our bedroom is on the upper terrace. Flooded with natural light, the floor-to-ceiling windows frame the crystalline water beyond. Minimalistic interiors nod to the terroir, too, with earthy rattan accents, crisp white linen, and vibrant pops of azure blue.
The morning’s travel means the siren call of the sea is
all too tempting; we’re quickly changed and sprawled
out on a lounger, where we spend the rest of the afternoon, only interrupting our sunbathing with the odd spot
of snorkelling.
That evening, we head to Al Faro, the hotel’s sea-view restaurant. The menu reads like a love letter to Campania, with two dishes – a linguine with bright, bursting datterini tomatoes and fresh prawns, and spaghetti Nerrano (a creamy, slow-cooked sauce comprised of thinly-sliced courgettes and provolone cheese, recently touted as Stanley Tucci’s favourite dish in Searching for Italy) – stealing the show. Both dishes paired perfectly with Ischia’s own Biancolella, a white wine as light and breezy as the island itself.
We’re often told ‘Italians don’t do breakfast,’ and while at The Pagoda it isn’t a lavish affair in the typical ‘buffet’ sense, it’s all the better for it. Every item is homemade or sourced locally; from freshly-baked focaccia and bresola to soul-affirming bowls of creamy yoghurt topped with juicy figs, nuts and sticky honey, and, of course, fragrant espresso and freshly squeezed orange juice. It’s the kind of breakfast that tempts you to linger longer as you watch the fishing boats bob in the harbour.
Thanks to its prime location, The Pagoda Lifestyle Hotel serves as a gateway to a treasure trove of activities and the concierge team couldn’t have been more helpful, tailoring recommendations that clearly reflect a deep love for their home.
On their advice we spend the remainder of the morning exploring Giardina La Mortella, a botanical wonderland created in 1958 by Lady Susana Walton, wife of composer Sir William Walton. Exotic flora and fauna thrives here, from towering tree ferns and fragrant jasmine to vivid bougainvillea cascading over the ancient stone walls. Be sure to pack your camera, because we’ve discovered that revisiting these colours might just be the cure for England’s endless winters.
'The island is criss-crossed with hiking trails, meandering through pine forests, vineyards and wildflower-strewn meadows'
After exploring by Ape (that is, the retro three-wheeled cars designed to navigate Ischia’s winding roads), we soon learn that the island is criss-crossed with hiking trails, meandering through pine forests, vineyards and wildflower-strewn meadows. As the sun starts to dip, we decide to tackle the climb to Monte Epomeo, Ischia’s highest peak; a must for the panoramic views that stretch right across the Bay of Naples to Capri, Procida, and even to the Amalfi Coast on a clear day.
Over coffee the following morning we decide upon a more leisurely itinerary. Ischia’s volcanic origins make it a natural go-to for R&R, with more than 100 thermal pools and spas, from natural hot springs to luxurious parks like Negombo and Poseidon Gardens. To the south, Le Fumarole near Maronti – accessible by a scenic drive or picturesque fishing boat trip – has natural steam vents and hot springs bubbling up through the sand. If this is Ischia’s answer to a spa day, we’re sold.
Suitably rejuvenated, we wander through nearby Sant’Angelo, a car-free fishing village with colourful houses, chic boutiques, and lively trattorias spilling onto the sun-drenched piazza. We share slices of perfect Neopolitan pizza and spoonfuls of rapidly melting pistachio gelato, before setting sail for home.
Whether looking for a romantic getaway, a wellness retreat, or simply the chance to slow down and savour the rhythm of real island life, this Ischian gem delivers in spades. While summer is peak season, Ischia’s charm extends well beyond the warmest months. Spring is arguably the best time to visit, when the mainland crowds are yet to arrive; autumn, on the other hand, is perfect for long walks, vineyard tours, and savouring the island’s bounty – which, coincidentally, is when we have chosen to return to our favourite Italian island.
pagodahotel.it
