Plan the Perfect Weekend in Bamburgh, Seahouses, Embleton & Craster
Secluded beaches, wildlife, seafood, ruined castles and arcades: these characterful villages dotted along a stunning stretch of Northumberland's coastline have something for everyone
The picturesque village of Bamburgh is always a popular destination for visitors to Northumberland and understandably so. Bamburgh has pubs and bistros, a gorgeous sandy beach and, of course, the ever-present backdrop of its iconic castle. Just to the north of Bamburgh, the tranquil Budle Bay is a relatively hidden gem, but greatly appreciated by bird watchers and kite surfers, while heading south you’ll find Seahouses. This bustling resort is the place to go for seaside nostalgia, with penny arcades, boat trips from the harbour and plenty of proper fish ’n’ chip shops.
Carry on south and you’ll arrive at Beadnell and a sweeping sandy bay that is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, or continue down the coast to the tiny fishing village of Low Newton, and take a seat by the village green for a cold pint of The Ship Inn’s real ale. From here the next stop is Embleton, a small village within walking distance of the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle and the vast expanse of Embleton Bay. Venture beyond the castle and you’ll find Craster, perhaps most famed for its kippers, but also a great base from which to explore more stunning walking routes along the coast.
Base Camp
In Bamburgh, the Grade II-listed Lord Crewe has earned five stars from the AA for its seven luxurious, individually designed bedrooms, and there’s some great seafood to be had in the restaurant too. For views of the castle, you can’t do better than Bamburgh Five, Coquet Cottages’ adults-only two bedroom apartment right at the foot of the iconic fortress, or (also from Coquet Cottages) Brada House is a stunning family-friendly farmstead conversion with room for six guests just a mile out of Bamburgh village in the hamlet of Glororum. Also in Glororum, Bamburgh Under Canvas is an adult-only glamping site for those who’d like to immerse themselves in nature from the comfort of a proper bed.
In Seahouses, hire a holiday home right on the coast at Seafield Caravan Park, which has a play area for families and is pet friendly. Just down the coast, Beadnell Towers is another great option for canine companions, with a number of dog-friendly rooms among its 18 boutique-style bedrooms, as well as great food and a dog-friendly bar that is perfect for a post-beach walk pint. For a tranquil retreat in High Newton, try the Garden Rooms on Newton Hall’s Estate and enjoy your own private garden (some of which have hot tubs and fire pits). A short drive down the coast is Craster, home of the famous Craster kipper, but also of Crasterway, a contemporary holiday home for eight guests just yards from the picturesque harbour.
Perfect Weekend
In Bamburgh the seafood on offer at The Lord Crewe sets the bar for the handful of excellent hotels-cum-pubs, but they’re all worth exploring. Book ahead to guarantee a table at The Potted Lobster – a lovely bistro specialising in local seafood. A weekend here wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the butchers (R Carter & Son) for supplies for a cracking breakfast (they cure and smoke their bacon onsite), and make sure you try one of their much-lauded pies whilst you’re there.
For a fun family day out head to Seahouses. Work up an appetite at the amusement arcade before taking your pick of the fish ’n’ chip shops (the question of which is best is the subject of intense debate, but Lewis’s Fish Shop is a name that comes up a lot). Check out the cave of wonders that is the Farne Gift Shop, pop into Independent Food & Drink for supplies from great local producers, then enjoy a round of crazy golf at The Bunker before refuelling with an ice cream from Coxons. Élan Pizzeria is a great spot for food, as is the Black Swan Inn, but for a cold pint with views over the harbour it has to be The Olde Ship Inn. The popular products at Vintage Hydes Leather are handmade in Northumberland using the best quality materials. Customers are welcome to book private viewings of their products on their visit to Seahouses.
Just off Beadnell beach, a tent-like structure by the carpark is home to The Landing, a trendy beach bar and restaurant where you can enjoy everything from a chilled Aperol on the deck to the freshest seafood, and there’s live music on Sunday afternoons. From here, the walk around the bay to south Embleton is spectacular. If you decide to set off on foot, you’ll hit the white-washed village of Low Newton before rounding the bay towards Embleton, with Dunstanburgh Castle looming ever-larger on the horizon. Between the beach and the village of Embleton lies Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Course, a traditional links course with a friendly clubhouse with a menu of light bites and simple favourites. The ruins of the 14th century castle itself are spectacular – as are the views out to sea from its lofty position on the headland. In the village there are a couple of pubs and a new Village Farm Shop where you can pick up a paper and local produce for lunch or delicious homemade treats to take to the beach.
Just outside Embleton village, Eleanor’s Byre is a treasure-trove of high-quality homewares, gifts, quirky finds and one-offs. Choose from a small selection of great coffee and more-ish cakes while you sit and admire their eclectic offerings or, for something more substantial, you need only slip outside to the car park, where you’ll find quality wood-fired pizzas served up by Embers (check their Instagram or Facebook updates for opening hours).
For the most authentic of Northumbrian culinary experiences, just head down the road to Craster and pick up some famous ‘Craster kippers’ right from the source at L Robson & Son. You can also browse original seascape paintings at The Mick Oxley Gallery, before walking south to the secluded cove at Rumbling Kern and the majestic cliff of Cullernose Point. Once you’ve made your way back, rest your legs with a well-deserved crab sandwich and views of the harbour in The Jolly Fisherman’s beer garden – there’s no better feeling.
Must See
The Farne Islands are home to one of the most exciting and diverse seabird colonies in the UK (including huge numbers of puffins), as well as colonies of seals and even the occasional pod of dolphins in the surrounding waters. There are 28 islands managed by the National Trust (although a number of them are submerged each high tide) and boat trips to see them set off from Seahouses harbour all year round. Various itineraries are available depending on the time of year and how much time you have, so take some time to plan your perfect trip ahead of your visit. For example, anyone with a knack for photography may want to reserve a spot on a sunset cruise for the chance to capture seals basking in the evening sunlight or (fingers crossed) a spectacular sunset behind Bamburgh Castle.
Article updated on 9th August 2024
