Review: A Fascinating River Cruise Through Normandy
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Living North jump aboard a Viking cruise ship in Paris and sail north through Normandy, taking in plenty of fascinating stops along the way
Few, however, require such little real input than a cruise, where the joy comes with everything being organised, ship shape and Bristol fashion for you.
The Viking fleet are multifarious in their makeup, and each of their cruises has a very different focus. You can take to the oceans, lakes or the rivers, as we did – in this instance the iconic River Seine. But be left in no doubt that this is a slick operation wherever in the world you choose to jump aboard.
As we soon discover, France’s capital waterway, contrary to initial perceptions, offers far more than just the city of Paris through which it flows. The journey north to Normandy is as rich and as fulfilling as you could imagine, with Paris just one single cherry upon a sumptuous French gateau. While we had considered the allure of Portugal's Douro and the delights of the Danube (not to mention the mighty Mississippi and the magic of the Mekong) we wanted to stay closer to home, and while that was true in geographic terms, the variety of our Seine river cruise made for a memorable escape.
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With a rich menu of cultural, historic and iconic places to experience at each carefully curated stop on the river, our pre-boarding pack was clearly laid out, making our excursion choices easy long before we’d even joined the ship.
Flying from Newcastle airport to Charles de Gaulle, and having quickly collected our bags we were met with prompt efficiency and whisked to our waiting mini-bus taxi. Post-Olympic Paris was busy, but our driver had, shall we say, a certain way of navigating the traffic and we soon arrived dockside at our new home, The Viking Skaga, tucked underneath the iconic Eiffel Tower.
All Viking ships have a similar look, but it’s one that has been very carefully considered by company Chairman Torstein Hagen and designer Richard Riveire who cites residential modernism as his main theme. But despite Scandi efficiency, there’s lots of welcome detail and plenty of character, and all Viking’s vessels give an individual nod to the destinations through which they travel.
Once aboard, after warm welcomes and efficient formalities we're ushered to our French Balcony stateroom. With floor to ceiling sliding doors opening to a glass balcony, and all the mod cons you would hope for, it’s our luxurious basecamp for the eight days ahead.
Settling in, two immediate issues needed to be dealt with. Firstly, the all-important safety drills, and secondly a welcome drink. So off we headed on the first of many visits to one of the key parts of the ship, the expansive lounge area, complete with bars and comfy seats where polished wood and pale leather predominate. One other strong feature is the floor-to-ceiling windows allowing 180 degree views of our ever changing surroundings.
Sitting back with a glass of wine, and a beer, we took in the scene; some British, lots of Americans, and a sprinkling of other nationalities made up our fellow passengers. In the background a pianist played familiar tunes, he was good and much to our amusement and delight, we discovered he was a fellow Geordie – from Bedlington. Talk about a small world.
With the necessary safety drills behind us the next chat was an introduction to the main team who were to look after us. The Viking longships are certainly top notch, but the company's biggest asset is its people. They combine a cocktail of knowledge, genuine interest and a willingness to please, always accompanied by a light touch and levity. If you could bottle it and send it to HR departments across the globe, the world would be a happier and much more efficient place.
With the introductions over, another evening ritual began with Chef Jozsef’s recommendations for dinner ahead. Food and drink are a key part of Viking cruises and the common thread of local delicacies permeate each menu. Stand outs from many during the voyage included a sumptuous Poached Norwegian Salmon, Escargots à la Bourguignonne and the Marmite Dieppoise (a Normandy fish and seafood stew) and the local French cheeses. Wines are all carefully selected, and the handy Sommelier's recommendations made each day, alongside the changing menus, were very helpful.
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Dining is a social affair. Tables mix and strangers sit alongside each other, some becoming friends for the trip (and beyond). The first night we sat with two Brits we'd spotted in the bar, (he was a slightly grumpy sort and she a delight), who became firm friends for our entire trip. I've rarely laughed so much, and definitely never with a man from Wigan!
With a spare morning in Paris before the ship sailed we strolled along the river and made it to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower before wimping out at the idea of going even higher. Post the Olympics there were still many signs of the summer’s games everywhere which were easily spotted from on high, alongside the city’s famous landmarks.
Down on ground level we crossed the Seine and headed back towards the Viking Skaga, but not before stopping at a classic pavement café for a coffee, sitting in the sunshine and watching the world go by in true Parisian style.
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Having skipped breakfast, back on board we made for the Aquavit Terrace for an early lunch, and managed to secure a table on the sunny deck outside. A delicious lunch and a glass or two of wine was a great way to start our voyage.
We were due to leave Paris at 3pm and to the second that's precisely what we did. We soon discovered that cruising up the river offers a fascinating insight into another side of the city. From contemporary glass-fronted offices squeezed between magnificent, historic buildings, to the myriad of houseboats of every size and shape, there was so much to see. Once past the city’s many bridges you can head up to the open top deck where there are sun loungers and comfy sofas, and a walking track for anyone needing to stretch their legs whilst aboard.
Two hours upstream we docked briefly at Courbevoie where stragglers who had opted to stay a little longer in Paris rejoined the ship. Journeying on again, the landscape continually changes and as we leave the outskirts of Paris we soon pass green meadows which tumble down to meet the river, rich farmland and countless cider orchards, all punctuated by the traditional half timbered barns and farmhouses which dot the landscape. We stop at La Roche-Guyon, a small, very pretty village loved by artists of the past (Pissarro, Renoir, Monet and Van Gogh) and with an excellent Boulangerie where the ship’s Hotel Manager Celina always makes a point of stocking up on croissants for the crew.
The landscape changes and we sail through steep sided valleys of chalk cliffs and dense woodland which rise high above the ship to our next stop, Les Andelys, a small town dominated by Chateau Gaillard, a 12th-century castle built by Richard the Lionheart to defend Rouen from the French. The ruins are definitely worth exploring, if just for the most spectacular view from the cliff top.
From there, it’s on to Rouen, the capital of French Normandy. It’s a beautiful city that dates from Roman times with Medieval half-timbered houses still lining the pretty cobbled streets, but it's the mighty Gothic cathedral, Cathédrale Notre-Dame, that, literally, stands out. Made more famous by the series of paintings that Claude Monet dedicated to it. Rouen is also the place of Joan of Arc's final hours. Tried and burned at the stake here in 1431, she is still very much part of the town’s history.
The ship can’t travel further north, but from Rouen various different trips are available, most notably to the D-Day beaches of Normandy. A coach takes you to those famous names from history, the beaches of Omaha, Utah, Gold, Juno and Sword which witnessed bravery the like of which history has rarely recorded, and each one is as moving as you would imagine. Fascinating archived news reels and films in the nearby museums recording the many heroic feats, successes and losses brought home just a little of what transpired before, and after D-Day. At the British cemetery at Ranville the losses become all the clearer. One grave amongst the many stood out – for a young man and his beloved dog, who died together, shot down whilst parachuting from a plane on an airborne mission, and buried together in a single grave. Ending on one of the great achievements of the war, before turning back to Rouen we headed to Pegasus Bridge. Read the story if you don’t know it… it's truly remarkable.
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Back on board, the ship turns south and heads back towards Paris and our final stop; Giverny and Monet's house and garden. Even shrouded in cloud the colours of Monet's natural masterpiece, from which he drew so much inspiration for his work, were stunning. Walking across the iconic bridge over the water lily pond and through his gardens bursting with colour was an enchanting experience, just like being in a painting.
All too soon we are back in Paris, but we have one more night aboard before disembarking so we opt for a night cruise to see 'the city of light' at night, and we’re so glad we did. The many splendid buildings, now dressed in their evening attire, are stunning as bright floodlights illuminate their historic grandeur in total contrast to the now black, and rather brooding river beneath. The Louvre, The Musée D'Orsay, Notre Dame and the Grand Palais all take their turn to dazzle, the finalé fittingly the Eiffel Tower, providing a late night light show to demonstrate her position as the city’s 'leading lady’.
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The Excursions
All our excursions were accompanied by guides who were knowledgeable, approachable and humorous, adding significant value. The planning was seamless and transport slick, with very little wait time anywhere and we journeyed here and there in total comfort. Well worth careful consideration when you receive your itinerary.
Dining
The food on board was exceptional. Efficient service, plenty of choice, local delicacies and good wines made every meal an enjoyable experience as we chatted with fellow passengers from across the globe. It’s also worth noting that whilst some passengers did dress for dinner the dress code was generally casual.
The Staff
While the comfort of the ship and the ever-changing landscape (the 360 aspect from the top deck complete with sofas was especially good) get full marks, it was the staff themselves that made the journey particularly special. From the housekeepers to the waiters, to the Officers and the Captain himself, every single one showed a passion for the ship and its passengers, and their attention to detail was to a standard rarely experienced.
The service was so warm but never invasive, and always engaging. As the Hotel Manager Celina declared on many occasions with delightful enthusiasm; Voila, Voila… there it is, there it is.
And there it was. The only question that remains is; where next?