Review: We Check Out James Close's Restaurant at Rockliffe Hall
TERRA is the new restaurant from James Close
Offering an ingredient-led menu that brings together the best of land and sea, from near and far, TERRA is a relaxed spot for dinner, with a focus on intentional simplicity. Inspiration comes from both near and far, giving the menu a slight ‘around the world in 18 courses’ vibe which we’re fully on board with.
Set on the first floor of the hotel with views over the estate’s parkland, there’s a light, airy feel to the space, with plenty of pale colours and accents of blue creating a vaguely coastal vibe.
On arrival, a glass of Brut Champagne Piaff each sets the tone nicely for what’s to come.
We’ve decided to try a whole selection of things from the menu, all to share (it’s set up perfectly for this) and the first few dishes come thick and fast. Two burnt lime halves on a bed of ice are topped with a super fresh hamachi ceviche – there seems to be no dignified way to eat this, so we settle for scooping the delicate ceviche off the flat top of the lime with a teaspoon, trying to get as little as possible on the table – and these are quickly followed by a fabulous mouthful of Spanish blue fin tuna sushi, bright red and delicious.
The team have recommended paired wines for the evening, and we’re happy to go with the flow, starting with an all-too-drinkable German riesling which works perfectly with our next dish, ‘Tomato Collection 2024’. Never mind being this year’s tomatoes, they taste like they were picked half an hour ago – rarely has what looks like a simple dish of tomatoes revealed such depth of flavour.
The next stop on our culinary tour is Italy for the ‘Flavours of Florence’ croissant, which is satisfyingly flaky and stuffed with ham, burrata and pistachio. It sounds simple, but this is a real highlight. It’s soon followed by another, as a crispy potato pavé topped with cod’s roe and caviar causes my partner to exclaim, ‘now that’s how you cook a potato’.
Our next wine is a supremely mineral-y Tuscan red (Brunello from Poggio Antico, one of the highest vineyards of Maltalcino), the slight saltiness of which is the perfect foil to our next dish of carabineros. These plump prawns have been grilled over charcoal with garlic, wine, chilli and parsley, enriched by the juice from the heads, and are served with slices of fresh-baked baguette. Having been helpfully informed that the best way to eat these is with your hands, we’re not shy about digging in. For James, we’re told, food is all about memories – perhaps bringing back memories of those amazing carabineros you had in a bar in Spain. While I can safely say that I’ve never been served anything as good as this in any Spanish bar (I will accept that perhaps I haven’t been going to the right places), the flavours are hugely evocative nonetheless. This is what summer tastes like.
Finally, we’re each poured a glass of Rose Piaff Champagne (welcomely refreshing at this point), and in the centre of the table we’re presented with a steaming dish of creamy bouillabaisse, packed with chunks of scallop, lobster and halibut. Dotted with crunchy croutons, it’s perfect for two.
Did I say finally? There’s still time for dessert. Alongside a sweet glass of Sauternes each we share a sundae made with raspberry, rose and lychee, and an outstanding tiramisu (I don’t even normally like tiramisu, and yet I gladly fought off my partner for the final scoop of this one).
We’re told that this pop-up is only the first chapter of what James Close has planned at Rockliffe Hall – and if this is only the beginning of something, we can’t wait to see what’s next.
