Review: We Try a Neighbourhood Bistro on the Northumberland Coast

The honey textured stone and mix of slate and terracotta tiles of Warkworth give the village a rare, almost ‘Cotswold-style’ appeal. The aptly named Bridge and Castle streets weave from the ancient bridge that straddles the horseshoe of the River Coquet uphill towards the ruined castle that has watched over the community for many centuries. In the village, the galleries, shops and hostelries of all types are a good reason to pay a visit, but under new ownership,  Bertrams, a cosy restaurant with rooms, has to be the standout attraction.

Recently taken over by chef, restaurateur and food aficionado Richard Sim, and others, we’d heard good things before we had the chance to pay a visit one warm summer’s evening. Heading through the front door it’s clear we are not the only ones looking for something good to eat. Despite the relatively early hour, the restaurant is already pretty full and there’s a real buzz and warmth within the the stone walls.

Arriving a bit early allowed us the opportunity to have a drink in the small courtyard hidden away behind the main building. With only a few tables, some tucked under the pretty flowering arbour, we thought it the perfect hideaway for a long lunch, or a holiday treat. The Courtyard has its own menu and we made a note to return for steak frites and Amble langoustines another day.

Our courtyard’s peace was persistently punctuated by the tinkling of the bell from the kitchen signalling another plate was ready for service – the restaurant was busy, busy, busy. Like much of coastal Northumberland there’s a mix of holiday cottage renters, day trippers and natives in Warkworth, most of whom seem to be in Bertrams, and after half an hour you can understand why. It’s cosy and intimate without being overwhelming. The original stone walls feature local artwork and the wooden tables sit on flagstone floors. The overall finish is calm and cultured, simple furnishings and soft banquettes add to the relaxed mood, quite simply just what we love.

The à la carte menu itself was robust, favouring, as all Sim restaurants do, the best local produce. We settled on starters of twice baked Northumberland cheese soufflé which was as light and fluffy as expected, and pan roasted scallops, crispy pork belly and quince – delicious, even though pork belly is not our usual choice.

Moving up a gear, if that were possible, the roast North Sea cod with brown shrimp and caper butter with salt roasted potatoes was a meaty triumph, and the pan-fried fillet of wild roe deer, rosti potatoes, whisky apples and peppercorn jus, rich and unctuous. Luckily we’d agreed to share beforehand. The flavours were exceptional and, cleverly, the lack of complexity allowed the quality of the local produce to shine as it should.

To conclude matters we chose the Northumberland Darling Blue cheese with port poached pear, quince and oat cake and the classic sticky toffee pudding, with caramel sauce, honeycomb and vanilla ice cream to round off an exceptional evening.

Bertrams morphs from breakfast bar to lunch café to restaurant/bistro as the day goes on, and its ability to adapt is so important in running a successful eatery today. It’s key that Northumberland offers reliable, accomplished restaurants with a warm and genuine welcome, and on every level this coastal gem delivers in buckets and spades.

Bertrams
19 Bridge Street, Warkworth, Northumberland NE65 0XB
01665 798070
bertrams.co.uk