Review: We Visit Gosforth's Hidden Gem, Ophelia
A go-to for other chefs in the area, Ophelia is certainly something special
We arrived early for a drink at the bar; a sun-dappled space leaning into the Francophile influences, with vintage Parisian prints adorning indigo blue walls and shelves lined with Lillet. Taking our seat at the statement stainless steel counter, there was only one way to kick off proceedings: a French 75. Crafted with Ford’s Gin, Vouvray Brut, and bright lemon peel, it was the aperitif par excellence – and the ideal accompaniment to peruse Ophelia’s extensive wine list.
After much deliberation, we settled on a light, low-intervention Gammay from the Loire Valley, and made our way through to the dining room. Reminiscent of a bistrot you’d find on the backstreets of Bordeaux, it’s all white paper tablecloths and dark walnut furniture, with views into the bustling open kitchen.
Snacks of bread and salty cultured butter arrived, alongside roasted chicken skin dusted with Espelette pepper. The sun was shining, so we opted for lighter seafood starters of chilled red prawns with lemon wedges and a golden pool of homemade mayonnaise – a masterclass in simple provenance – and raw hand-dived scallops, topped with early season tomatoes and black olives.
For the main event (and following advice from our waitress), we settled on the rare breed pork belly – though there’s the option to segue from the traditional Sunday roast, with seasonally-inflected dishes in the form of North Sea plaice with wild garlic, asparagus and ratte potatoes, and chicken leg ‘à la Moutarde’ with braised puy lentils. When the plate of porchetta-style pork enrobed in perfect crackling landed, we knew we were onto a good thing. Served with Yorkshire pudding, crispy roast potatoes, simple steamed greens and a decadent creamy leek gratin topped with crunchy breadcrumbs, it’s no surprise we fell victim to the curse of not saving room for dessert, as tempting as the malted chocolate tart with cherries and crème fraîche sounded.
It’s clear that Ophelia is exactly what Gosforth – and indeed, Newcastle – needed. In warmer weather, there might be no better place to wile away an evening than perched on one of their street-side tables, martini in hand, and we’re already planning a return to sample the steak frites menu.
Highlight: The absolutely perfect pork crackling which we still talk about.
What We Wish We’d Tried: The fennel and honey panna cotta with strawberries and vin jaunt vinegar – but we simply didn’t have room.
Our Take Away: Ophelia is definitely one of the North East’s best kept foodie secrets – but for how long?
Ophelia, 6-10 Bowsden Terrace, Newcastle
opheliagosforth.co.uk
