Review: A Weekend Break at The Devonshire Arms Hotel & Spa in the Yorkshire Dales
In the glorious surroundings of the Yorkshire Dales, we check into The Devonshire Arms Hotel & Spa for a weekend of country chic - and to try their newest restaurant
Stepping into the warmly-lit reception, there are rows of wellies by the door and a distinctly country-house feel to the place. We stand by the fire as we check in and go through the details of our stay, then tear ourselves away to make our way to our spacious room, which is decorated with bold colours and rich fabrics, with a small seating area, enormous bed and a sizeable bathroom complete with a large tub and a walk-in rain shower. The walls are lined with photographs of the estate, and we can’t wait to explore.
Having arrived a little late, we’re pleased to find the hotel’s welcoming Brasserie is busy and bustling when we head through for dinner. We choose a bottle of wine and peruse the menu, taking a sideways glance at what our fellow diners are enjoying before ordering. My heirloom tomatoes are drenched in a delicious lemony oil and topped with sourdough croutons, while my partner’s starter of scallop comes with curried chickpeas, a red pepper hummus and a small onion bhaji. It’s a strong start, and we don’t have to wait too long for our mains to follow. Corn fed chicken breast with dauphinoise potatoes, pleasingly crispy parma ham and a red wine jus for me, while my partner’s duck breast comes with smoked pancetta sauerkraut, a duck bon bon and an unctuous black garlic emulsion.
Taking some time to enjoy our wine, we observe the three or four well-behaved dogs which are dotted around the restaurant (the hotel is seriously dog friendly) and discuss whether we should have brought our own dog with us, before ordering a bowl of pear crumble and custard to share.
In the morning, we’re able to see our surroundings properly for the first time. The hotel is part of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate, and outside the manicured gardens give way to rolling grassland which leads down to the River Wharfe. My partner has apparently been examining the handy maps in reception and has planned a route for us to go exploring the estate. Having taken on his routes before, a full Yorkshire breakfast seems a must to fuel us up for the day, before setting off.
Striking out across the fields, we find a well-walked and well-signposted path which takes us along the river to Bolton Priory. From here we head up river, often turning back to enjoy views of the Priory. We pass an ornate, Grade-II listed stone fountain before the path leads us down to The Cavendish Pavilion, where we stop for a drink before pushing on further along the river. The well-maintained path then takes us into Strid Wood, home to one of the largest remnants of native sessile oak trees in the Yorkshire Dales, which hugs the banks of the River Wharfe. Part-way along the path we come to The Strid itself, where the river suddenly narrows and water shoots through the narrow gap. Crossing over the river higher up, we return down the opposite bank (somehow managing to miss the track which would take us to the intriguingly-named Valley of Desolation), and come back to Bolton Priory, this time viewing it from the iconic stepping stones (which, I’d like to note, are quite a bit further apart than they look in pictures)
‘By seven o’clock we’re ensconced in two deep armchairs in the cocktail lounge next to a merrily crackling fire’
By the time we get back to the hotel we’ve walked nine miles, but there are car parks higher up the river if you didn’t fancy such a hike, and the hotel will helpfully provide you with a parking pass. Happily, our plan for the late afternoon is less taxing: we’re heading to the spa. Housed in a stone barn just across the road from the main hotel, this is a great addition to the hotel. There’s a large vitality pool, sauna, steam room, rasul chamber and lounge, and we spend a happy hour exploring before heading back to get ready for dinner.
By seven o’clock we’re ensconced in two deep armchairs in the cocktail lounge, next to a merrily crackling fire, admiring the two labradors accompanying the guests on the sofa across the room. We’re really starting to think we should have brought the dog at this stage, but no matter – dinner tonight is the main reason for our visit. Previously the award-winning Burlington restaurant, the hotel’s fine-dining offering is now The Garden Room, where there’s the option of a seasonal tasting menu as well as à la carte. Overlooking the gardens, it’s a clean, bright space with flickering candlelight and a welcoming feel, where the chefs use local produce including ingredients from the hotel’s own kitchen garden (which we actually had a peek at earlier in the day).
Having ordered while we were in the cocktail lounge, our wine (a Californian pinot noir, chosen on the recommendation of the sommelier) is waiting for us when we take our seats, and is quickly joined by a more-ish loaf of toasted oat and Guinness bread with a light crème fraîche butter.
My starter of Orkney scallop comes with a wonderfully light and tangy dashi hollandaise, topped with a semolina crisp, while my partner’s black treacle-braised pig cheek is served with salsify, black olive crumb, pickled mushroom and a parsnip crisp. For our mains, we simply couldn’t overlook the Yorkshire beef Wellington to share, and we have no regrets when it arrives. Served individually, we each get a thick slice of pink fillet wrapped in delicate, crisp pastry. It’s served with soft potato fondant, carrots and a rich red wine jus. The service is excellent but not overbearing, and by the time we get to dessert we know we’re in the hands of experts here. My partner’s ‘Estate Heather Honey’ (a delightful concoction which includes a bee pollen financier, white chocolate and honey mousse, and a honey milk ice cream) manages not to be overly sweet despite being made primarily of honey. I can rarely resist a cheeseboard, and especially not one put together by the team at The Courtyard Dairy as it is here (highlights include an unexpectedly soft Yorkshire Pecorino and a sweet Devon Blue).
Returning to the bar after dinner for a night-cap, again we take the chance to observe our fellow guests, or more accurately their dogs. There are again two black labradors across the room from us, lying contentedly by the fire and looking up hopefully each time someone passes with what they think might be a treat (but is more often a cocktail). We’re not looking forward to checking out in the morning, but we already know we’ll be back – and next time, we’re bringing the dog.
