Review: A Weekend in a Northumberland Coastal Hideaway
A lovingly newly built house just outside one of England's most historic and charming villages… what could be better for a weekend escape?
Crossing the Coquet and turning sharply to our right on the lane leading to Warkworth beach and Golf Club, and then left onto an untarmacked path we were soon outside our timber-clad home for the weekend. Built by a family who had fallen in love with Warkworth, the house was immaculate. A quick inspection revealed a generously proportioned and well-equipped dining kitchen leading onto the large lawned garden with views across farmland and the golf course to the sea in the distance. Downstairs also boasted the ensuite master bedroom, large boot room-cum-laundry, and a shower room. The sitting room was upstairs, with its own balcony to make the most of the view (complete with telescope for dark sky viewing), and there were two more bedrooms and bathrooms too. It was one of those places you could start to relax in from the get-go, not least because of its quiet, hidden away location.
Despite the very generous welcome hamper, freshly-baked scones and plenty of treats for the dog which greeted us, we decided to make the most of the late evening sunshine and pop up to Alnmouth, just five minutes away, for a stroll along the beach, a pint in the Red Lion’s beer garden and to pick up fish and chips to take away. We walked up Alnmouth’s main street which was quiet for a Friday evening, but no doubt it was the calm before the probable approaching storm of the summer holidays.
On our return, fish and chips and wine were consumed outside, and as the temperature dropped we headed upstairs to the cosy sitting room to catch up on some football. Sadly, despite a few amber aurora alerts beeping on the app, the clouds which had steadily amassed overhead meant the stars were pretty much obliterated that night so we headed to bed.
After breakfast we made our way to the beach, about a 15-minute walk down the lane. Warkworth beach, like so many in Northumberland, is a long sandy stretch, sweeping north to Alnmouth and south to Amble, and despite the not-so-bright morning there were still a respectable number of families enjoying the sand.
Walking back we watched golfers swing merrily, oyster catchers sweeping overhead, and marvelled at the tranquility of the whole area. After a leisurely brunch we headed into Amble, just a five-minute drive south (but walkable too) to take a look at the harbourside village pods, grab an ice cream at Spurreli and browse Saturday’s market. There are also a number of good restaurants here, The Fish Shack on the harbour and, in the town, cosy Jasper’s Bistro are both worth seeking out.
Returning past Warkworth Castle, resplendent in the sunshine, a village cricket match was taking place just outside its walls. It makes you realise this is a special part of the world. The main street still has plenty of independent shops worth popping into, and plenty of pubs too, whilst a walk along the riverbank is a must-do.
Heading back we decided to take some time out, relax, read (there’s a selection of books left to choose from) and enjoy the view from the balcony. We’d booked a table at Bertram’s in the village that evening which has recently changed hands, so we strolled back into Warkworth and enjoyed a pre-dinner drink in the sunny courtyard at the rear before being shown to our table. The restaurant was full, and when our food arrived it was pretty easy to understand why as it was some of the very best we’d enjoyed for some time.
Walking back through the village the yellow sandstone took on a darker hue in the evening light, and as we admired the view back up the hill to the castle we could only wonder at its rich past and the people who had been here before.
You can’t stay in Warkworth without visiting the castle, perched high above the River Coquet, so the next morning we wandered along the river bank, watching paddle boarders lazily make their way upstream disturbing the many ducks hiding in the reeds, and admiring the pretty stone cottages which face onto the river. Half way along the river path is St Lawrence’s Church, a large and almost completely Norman building, which is unique in Northumberland (a church has been on the same site for some 1,200 years). But it’s the castle, once home to the powerful Percy family, which looms large over the river and neighbouring countryside and where a new interactive trail follows the lives of those who lived in and around the castle in the 15th century, helping to bring some of its story to life.
The rich history of this area ensures its popularity but it actually never feels overly busy. The Dunes is a hidden away but idyllic base from which to enjoy Warkworth and its nearby surrounds, which include Alnwick and its many attractions. As we (reluctantly) left we realised how we’d actually forgotten about this beautiful part of Northumberland, and totally understood why the lucky owners of The Dunes would wish to have a permanent tiny corner of this special place.
The Dunes, Warkworth NE65 0XS
01665 710700
To book visit coquetcottages.co.uk
