
Extract taken from River Cottage Great Roasts by Gelf Alderson
(Bloomsbury, £20 Hardback)
Photography © Emma Lee
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I love smoked fish and I’m fortunate enough to be able to smoke my own, but I appreciate this is unusual. Most good fishmongers and supermarket fish counters sell naturally smoked fish, which is pale yellow in colour. Avoid anything that is bright yellow, as this will have been dyed and most likely dipped in a smoke-flavoured cure rather than smoked properly. If you have any leftovers (which I doubt), thin down with a little stock the next day for a hearty chowder-like lunch.
An under-rated cut, lamb breast comes from the same part of the animal as belly pork, which we know and love. Cooked well, it is tasty and tender, so give it a go. You need breasts from a decent-sized animal – consider asking your butcher for hogget breasts, which will be larger and meatier.
Figs are an opulent fruit, packed full of flavour, and when you add a little brandy to them you have a real powerhouse on your hands. Try and select figs that are just ripe – if they feel overly soft, it can be a sign that they have started to rot.
Extract taken from River Cottage Great Roasts by Gelf Alderson
(Bloomsbury, £20 Hardback)
Photography © Emma Lee