We Try the New Menu at Marco Pierre White's Durham Restaurant
Living North get a taste of the new à la carte menu at Marco Pierre White's Durham restaurant
Whilst steak remains at the heart of the new menu (with cuts including fillet, ribeye and sirloin as well as a range of sharing steaks including the Tomahawk, Chateaubriand and Porterhouse T-Bone), we head to the restaurant on a busy Friday night to try something different.
We take a seat in the buzzy bar, having arrived a little early to check it out ahead of our meal in the restaurant within Hotel Indigo Durham, just a short stroll from the city centre. The Victorian façade leads you to the steakhouse bar and grill and the interior is lavish but comfortable, which sets the tone for our evening – a cool fusion of relaxed and fine dining. We’re seated in a booth where we’re quickly served a large glass of French Marco Pierre White & Jean Luc Colombo syrah which has a satisfying zing of spice (for me) and a generous shot of Havana Club Cuban spiced rum with coke (for him). Whilst we peruse the new menu, we’re treated to a basked of warm baked sourdough and melt-in-the-mouth salted English butter with martini olives, fresh lemon and extra virgin olive oil.
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To start I’ve got my eye on the beetroot and goats’ cheese salad with candied walnuts and merlot vinegar, and the serving I get is more like the size of a main – but the added texture and sweetness of the walnuts mean it’s moreish and I easily polish off the plate. My partner has opted for a seafood starter – Wheeler’s crispy calamari with sauce tartare and fresh lemon in a mesh wrap. This too is gone in a matter of minutes.
While our plates are cleared, our eyes are drawn to the stunning décor once more – the uniquely decorated ceiling and arched windows showcase the beauty of this historic building. Being a Friday evening, the atmosphere is lively but the subtle lighting creates an intimate setting which we decide is best suited to celebratory dinners. But it is worth noting that there’s also plenty of choice for younger diners, all at a price point that won’t break the bank.
Within no time, our mains are served – and we’ve each chosen a different meat to try. I tuck into roast chicken à la forestière which sits on a bed of woodland mushrooms, confit potato, madeira roasting juices and buttered leaf spinach, whilst my partner faces a hefty portion of confit belly of pork with butter beans and honey spiced roasting juices, and regrets ordering a side of Koffmann chips (but I help in clearing that plate). Tender and in his words ‘perfection’ he announces (to both me and later our waitress), that it’s the best pork he’s ever tasted. I can say the same for my chicken which melts away from my knife. Just be warned the portions are big… and we’ve still got dessert to go.
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With eyes bigger than my belly I order a warming apple and almond crumble with the most delicious and refreshing vanilla ice cream, while my partner digs into a creamy baked New York cheesecake with a zingy blueberry sauce. For savoury lovers, the Union Jack cheese plate looks like a winner too.
We’ve overindulged and the chocolate orange espresso martini I had my eye on is going to have to wait for another night, but we couldn’t fault a single aspect of our meal from the treats to our tastebuds to the friendly service. We’re heading home but it’s clear that many of our fellow diners are heading only a few steps up to their hotel room. It’s worth noting that there’s a newly introduced vegan menu which is available throughout the year, and knowing you’re dining from a menu curated by the first British chef to be awarded three Michelin stars, booking a table here should be a no-brainer. We’ll be back to try burrata with vine tomatoes which we’re told Marco loves to eat, and the 1879 Cambridge burnt cream…
Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill Durham
Old Shire Hall, 9 Old Elvet, Durham DH1 3HL
0191 329 3535
mpwrestaurants.co.uk
