Why Norman's Neighbourhood Kitchen is a Must-Visit this Year
A hidden gem in South Yorkshire, Norman's Neighbourhood Kitchen has been impressing diners time and time again
Tell us about your background.
I started at Shibden Mill Inn just outside Halifax as a pot washer when I was 13. I worked in the kitchen for a little bit and ended up front of house and as tragic as this is, I really enjoyed it. A Saturday night running around in a busy restaurant is as good as a Saturday night comes for me. I’ve always dreamt of opening my own place, and it felt like a pipe dream for a long time but [my wife Amelia and I] started looking at places three or four years ago. Norman’s was exactly the kind of place I was looking for. I wanted somewhere small where you can see the kitchen on the same floor. Before we knew it, we had a set of keys!
What was the vision for Norman’s?
Where I worked before I absolutely adored, but it was huge; it had multiple rooms, a downstairs restaurant, an upstairs restaurant, and a bar area. So I always felt like although the service and the staff were really good, if it got busy it got diluted and you couldn’t touch base with every table. With Norman’s, from the get-go we wanted something small so that you can pay attention to all the little details. It’s lots of little tiny things that you might not notice. We prioritise things like holding the door for people coming in, offering to take their coats, and as soon as people come down there’s water on the table, which 99 percent of people might miss but if that puts you in a nice relaxed mood, we’ve done our bit. Then we back that up with some nice wine and food.
Tell us about how dishes come together.
I’m predominantly front of house so my speciality is pouring wine and talking nonsense, but we’re unbelievably lucky in the kitchen here. Will Webster came on who was the head chef at Shibden Mill Inn. When it comes to him creating dishes, I’m convinced that there’s some sort of madness involved. We also have Louis Bamford and Rory Callaghan. Louis has got a real talent for spotting things that will go together and Rory ran his own restaurant for six years, so I’ve got three really creative chefs who bounce off each other in the best way.
We have a chocolate delice that’s really nice and really rich, and they’ve done a salty mushroom ice cream with it. When they’re talking you through it, you question your own sanity, but when you try the food it’s unbelievable. One thing I say at Norman’s is try it, and if it doesn’t work just don’t do it again. It’s the same for front of house with wines and cocktails; try it and if it doesn’t work nothing bad is going to happen, we just learn our lesson and move on. It does seem to be that they just go home, think of the most insane possible food combinations and then come in and try to make them work. Luckily the food speaks for itself.
Do you have a favourite?
The parsnip dessert is unbelievable. It’s a set parsnip ice cream at the bottom, then you’ve got a whisky syrup outside and they’ve made a ginger cake that they soak in whisky with a white chocolate and parsnip ganache on top. I love it because it’s one of those dishes that you describe to someone and they look at you like you’ve lost the plot – you want to say just trust me and if you don’t like it, I’ll take it off the bill and give you something else. But everyone who has it says it’s unreal.
And something savoury?
We’ve got a Jerusalem artichoke dish as well. We cook them really slowly overnight in marmite butter, finish them in the pan to get some colour and then make a roast potato and truffle sauce. Will has explained to me eight times how they make a roast potato sauce and I’m still not convinced. All three of them have this habit of doing amazing things and then making it sound like it’s the easiest thing in the world. It’s not something that I think would jump out at people on the menu but if you are here, just go for it.
What was it like finding out Norman’s is in the Michelin Guide?
Hand on heart we thought someone was winding us up. We had no idea they’d visited, but they are the most mysterious of beings anyway. You don’t want to get yourself too worked up or too excited, and then it got announced and it was just insane. We’ve set a standard now. When we first opened people were coming because we were a former little café in Kirkburton, so people were coming with very low expectations. Now they’re coming in with expectations because the bar is much higher. For us, we’re desperate to retain the level that we’re at, but we already feel like we’re a better restaurant than we were three months ago. We’re just making sure we’re doing what we’re doing, keeping guests happy and keeping them coming back.
Where’s your favourite spot to eat nearby?
Brook’s in Brighouse (which I literally live stumbling distance from), but Skosh in York is one we went to and thought ‘this is how restaurants should be’.
What’s your top hospitality tip?
Pay attention to the tiny little details that mean nothing. People will be enjoying themselves and won’t know why.
Do you have a favourite ingredient?
I probably would have said yes until I started working with these chefs in the kitchen because the lunatics create mental things. Now I wouldn’t say I do. I would say it’s whatever is in season, and what madness the kitchen can create.
